Trailhead
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A.T. Companion • Headlamp Material • Work Trips • Side Trails
THERE ARE ONLY three ways to come to this lakeside town in northern Washington. You can come by boat, by floatplane, or walk on the Pacific Crest Trail.
Ann and I came by trail, hiking 2,569 miles from the Mexican border. A shuttle bus, which operates on the area’s only road, took us 10 miles from North Cascades National Park, where the trail crosses the road, to the town dock on Lake Chelan. Tomorrow we’ll return to the trail to hike the remaining 88 miles to Manning Park in Canada.
We sat on the deck overlooking the 55-mile long lake, which surrounded by mountains looks like a Norwegian fjord. The afternoon ferry departed for Chelan with its load of about 50 passengers, many just in town for the day. A float plane landed, taxied towards us, cut its motor and silently glided to the end of the dock to discharge four passengers. Two waiting passengers boarded and the plane departed.
Three weeks ago we left Oregon and entered Washington, crossing the Columbia River in 90-degree weather. A few days later, on Aug. 30, we were hit with the first snowstorm of our hike in the Mount Adams Wilderness Area. After a brief flurry the sun appeared. We continued hiking, hoping to arrive at our chosen campsite before dark.
As we rushed across the slopes of Mount Adams darkness fell and the snow started falling again in earnest. Suddenly we could not see the trail. We quickly found a spot to camp sheltered by a cluster of evergreens. Snug and dry in our sleeping bags, we cooked supper in near-darkness as the snow continued falling.
During the night we had to beat the tarp several times to relieve it of its sagging load of snow. The next morning everything was covered in white, including the trail. A slight indentation in the snow indicated the trail’s location. We easily followed this until we reached lower elevations where the snow turned to cold rain.
Later that day Lara and Jason overtook us. Glad for the company, we hiked with them a few miles, then camped as darkness fell. Lara and Jason continued hiking after dark, wanting to make a few more miles. At least we would have their footsteps to follow over Goat Rocks.
The hike over Goat Rocks was spectacular. Six inches of new snow covered the trail. We saw herds of elk and mountain goat in the alpine-like environment. At 7,000-plus feet elevation, the highest on the PCT in Washington, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier filled our horizon, all wearing their white mantle of snow.
The unsettled weather continued until we reached Snoqualmie Pass. As we hiked in freezing rain down the ski slope toward the shelter of the Summit Inn, a full rainbow enveloped the small ski village. Our weather has been perfect ever since with cool nights, clear days and spectacular scenery for the northern half of Washington.
People often ask, “What do you think about while you hike?”
Lately I’ve been envisioning myself lying on my couch, perhaps for days at a time.
By the time you read this column I’ll be there.