Trailhead
New Boots • Gathering • Grapevine • Springer Fever
A.T. Companion • Headlamp Material • Work Trips • Side Trails
NOW 850 MILES into our hike of the 2,638-mile Pacific Crest Trail, Ann and I are enjoying the luxury of Muir Trail Ranch high in the Sierra Mountains near Lakeshore, Calif. Since arriving here yesterday, we've eaten three delicious meals, soaked in the hot springs, washed our clothes in the old-time, wringer-type washing machine, and slept soundly in our own private log cabin on the banks of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River.From Kennedy Meadows to Tualumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park, the Pacific Crest Trail runs over 235 trail-miles through the Sierra Mountains without a single road crossing. In order to re-supply, we sent a food package to Muir Trail Ranch, located on a private parcel just a half-mile off the trail in the John Muir Wilderness Area. As a service to hikers, the ranch packs these parcels up from their docks on Florence Lake for a fee. From July to September, the ranch is booked by groups of 15- 20 people who stay for a week at a time. however, early and late in the season, in June and October, individuals can stay here, and Ann and I were fortunate that a cabin was available when we arrived to pick up our food package. After crossing five 12,000+-foot, snow-covered passes in five days, and fording countless streams swollen with snow-melt, we're grateful to relax here and celebrate our successful passage through the High Sierras. Starting with 13,200-foot Forrester Pass, we learned the use of the ice axe as we followed the footsteps of more experienced companions traversing the steep snow fields. Finally reaching the top, our celebration was short-lived when we realized we still had to get down the other side. By the end of the day, as the sun softened the snow, we were post-holing in snow up to our waists, but we made it down. Glen Pass, Pinchot Pass, Mather Pass and Muir Pass followed in succeeding days as we got more comfortable with the ice axe and secure in its use. The stream crossings, however, became more treacherous. Initially we took off our shoes and waded. Then we began leaving our shoes on for more secure footing. Between the streams and the snow our shoes and socks essentially stayed wet for 5 days. Once a waist-deep crossing of a swift stream knocked me off my feet, but I quickly recovered. Often several hikers would cross the more dangerous crossings together, helping each other across. At Evolution Creek I crossed, dropped my pack, and started across to help Ann. As I stepped back into the waist-deep water, the rushing current knocked me off my feet. Fortunately Scott, who had crossed earlier, stepped past me and quickly reached Ann in midstream. Holding her arm, he helped her the rest of the way across. Nearing the bank, Ann extended her hiking stick to me and I pulled them both safely ashore. Ann and I celebrated our 34th wedding anniversary by crossing Muir Pass. The morning snow gave perfect footing on the long traverse up to the pass. We ate lunch sitting on the steps of the stone hut at the top. Taking it easy on the way down, we stopped for the night at 10,850-foot Evolution Lake, finding a perfect campsite on a small peninsula with our backs resting against a large boulder. We cooked supper snug in our sleeping bags as the sunset turned the sky shades of crimson and red. After sunset the wind dropped, turning the lake's surface into a perfect mirror reflecting the snow-covered mountains on the opposite shore. It was a perfect way to celebrate a perfect 34 years of marriage.