HERE IS MORE to New Jersey than turnpikes and casinos. After 1,325 miles of hiking the Appalachian Trail from Springer Mountain, Ga.,
we found a New Jersey of beautiful ridgetop hiking, crystal-clear glacier lakes, abundant wildlife, and quaint country inns.
The Apple Valley Inn is in the heart of Glenwood, a small hamlet of 800 people just a mile off the trail. Owned by Alabamians John and Mitzi Durham, the Inn is an oasis of gracious living in a restored three-story house built in the early 1800s. The Durhams take a
limited number of hikers in addition to their regular clientele.
We arrived yesterday afternoon after hiking 16 miles in the rain. John immediately gave us a glass of juice, washed our wet and dirty clothes, and pointed us in the direction of the swimming pool.
This is just one of many hiker stops along the Appalachian Trail. They give a nice break to the routine of shelter living and sleeping under the stars and a place to stay while doing town chores. Some others we have enjoyed:
• The Place, Damascus, Va. We had our own room in this house behind the Methodist church. A donation is requested if you can afford it or work if you can’t. Damascus bills itself as “The Friendliest Town on the Trail” and hosts a “Trail Days” festival every year.
• The Doyle Hotel, Duncannon, Pa. For $10 a night you don’t expect much, and you don’t get much at the Doyle. Built around the turn of the century by Annheuser-Busch, the hotel has seen better days. If the rooms are too expensive, you can rent the ballroom for $2 a night.
• The United Church of Christ Pavilion, Port Clinton, Pa. Located on the shady banks of the Schuylkill River, this was the only cool spot for miles around in the middle of a heat wave. A member of the church brought us cold Pepsis and Coleman fuel.
The heat and rocks of Pennyslvania have been harder than the mountains and snow of North Carolina. One thermometer we saw last week registered 97 degrees. I do not remember Baldwin County getting that hot. Springs ran dry. Several times we walked half a mile down the mountain to find a spring still flowing.
We adapted by hiking early, sleeping in a shelter in the middle of the day, and hiking again late in the evening.
Two weeks ago, seven thru-hikers were staying in the Peters Mountain Shelter north of Duncannon. By the time the last hiker’s alarm went off at 5:45, the rest of us were on the trail.
We have sent all unnecessary weight home or to a post office up the trail. For clothing I am down to two pairs of Umbro soccer shorts, two T-shirts, and one long-sleeve thermal underwear shirt in case it gets cold. We were happy to walk in the rain the last two days, even without our rain parkas. It was the first time we have been cool in weeks.
But then we are only weeks away from the White Mountains of New Hampshire, where there is still snow on the ground and ice on the lakes. They are, by reputation, the most difficult miles of the entire trail.
Ann says now that she is accustomed to living in misery, she is really looking forward to the Whites.
