Trailhead
New Boots • Gathering • Grapevine • Springer Fever
A.T. Companion • Headlamp Material • Work Trips • Side Trails
Sunday, May 3, 1998 - Nashville, TN
The day began early in Edmond, OK. I woke up at 5:00 a.m. with nervous anticipation. I had packed the night before and all I needed to do was close up the pack and leave. Unfortunately I had left my 3 lbs. of homemade beef jerky out during the night and my dog had found it while we slept. I discovered that she had surgically removed every morsel from its Ziplock bag. Fortunately I had a backup supply in the freezer (which was a poorer tasting batch). Left Edmond at about 6:00 a.m. With a couple of roadside naps I made it to Henderson, TN about 5:00 p.m. Visited with Pop Oldham for about an hour at the nursing home and then ate supper at Taco Bell with Reeder and Mary. After visiting with them for about an hour I drove on to Nashville and got to Terry's about 9:30 p.m. Had a good visit. Am anxiously awaiting tomorrow. A "book of wisdom" by Terry's commode had this saying in it: "Emulate the postage stamp. It sticks to one thing until it's finished." Monday, May 4, 1998 - Stover Creek Shelter - 2.5 mfs (miles from Springer)
Woke up at 3:30 a.m. last night with almost an anxiety attack worrying about whether I can do this. Made an unscheduled visit to the bathroom. I guess I should cherish the moment, since I have only one real dislike for backpacking, i.e., "squatting" in the woods. Got up about 6:30 a.m. and Terry was already up. We left his house in Nashville about 8:00 a.m. CT. Arrived in Dalton, GA. at 11:00 a.m. (but noon ET). Ate at Shoney's and left by 1:00 p.m. ET - Arrived at AT/USFS 42 intersection at 2:30 p.m. Met two guys there, Matt and Jason. They had hiked the approach trail from Amicalola Falls and Jason asked Terry if he would take $20 and mail his knee brace and about 6 pounds more of his stuff back home for him. (See the Christmas card note at the end of the journal from "Polar Bear" and "Aenaes" as Matt and Jason came to be called.) Terry agreed, and got his trail angel wings. Terry and I then hiked up Springer Mtn. Met 3 others there, a man and woman who were hiking together and planning to get to Erwin, TN by June 4th, and another very long haired guy who said he was only going as far as Fontana. I'll probably see more of them. Made it to the top of Springer in 30 minutes with no pack, spent 15 minutes there taking pictures and writing in the trail journal, and then started back down. I left Terry at the car (with my favorite water bottle) at 4:00 p.m. He left and I remembered the water bottle and whistled at him, but, alas, it was too late. At that point a guy getting off the trail offered to give me a Gatorade bottle he had been carrying. I accepted. Trail Angel #2. Hiked to Stover Creek shelter and arrived at 4:50 p.m. ET. Made the 1.7 miles in about 50 minutes, but my boots were hurting my feet. Found a couple asleep inside. They were "Southern Harp and Travelin' Man" who had thru-hiked in 1995 and are doing it again. They have been caretakers at the Blackburn Trail Center, which is located about 12 miles south of Harper's Ferry, close to Round Hill, VA. Also there was Will "Arcadian". Tuesday, May 5, 1998 - Justus Creek (tent) - 13.6 mfs Got sick at 10:30 p.m. last night. Had terrible diarrhea. Guess that smoked sausage for supper didn't set well. Violated trail ethics this morning and gave the rest of the smoked sausage a mighty fling into the woods (keeping the wrappers, of course). Woke up early at 6:30 a.m. feeling much better after earlier taking an anti-diarrheal. Ate only Carnation Instant breakfast and got on the trail by 7:30. Good hike this morning. Arrived at Hawk Mtn. shelter at 10:30 a.m. for a break. Southern Harp and Travelin' Man left camp and made it to Hawk Mtn. at the same time as me, although we didn't hike together. Left Hawk Mtn. shelter at 11:20 a.m. optimistic about going 8 more miles to Gooch Gap shelter. I had not anticipated the P.U.D.s. (pointless ups and downs), however. Managed to get only about 5 more miles before calling it quits at an ideal campsite on a babbling brook (Justus Creek). Matt and Jason made it to the same place about 40 minutes later. Jason is the one Terry agreed to mail some stuff home for. They are planning to thru-hike to Katahdin. Denny, the longhaired guy, also showed up. He takes a break at this time of night and then hikes further until dark. Not a bad plan, actually. Travelin' Man and Southern Harp passed me today and I suspect I won't see them again. They get up early and hike pretty hard. They are planning to hike the whole way, but do a flip-flop at Harper's Ferry. Wednesday, May 6 - Wood's Hole Shelter - 26.7 mfs
Broke camp early and left at 7:10 a.m. Planned to stop and eat breakfast later. Stopped on the trail and ate instant breakfast. Made for a nice break. Made it to the spring below Gooch Gap shelter at 9:10 a.m. An older gentleman named Arthur, from Arlington, TX caught me there. He originally planned a thru-hike, but is deciding to give it up before the Smokies. We hiked "together" until Woody's Gap (Hwy crossing). We leapfrogged with each other until then. Denny (the longhaired guy) also caught up with me during the morning, but I made it to Woody's Gap ahead of him at 12:35 p.m. Left Woody's Gap at 1:25 p.m. I stopped at 5:00 p.m. when I didn't think I could go further and cooked a freeze-dried Campmor meal (Spaghetti and meat sauce). Not half bad, and it gave me the energy to go on after a 40 minute break. An older guy came upon me while I was eating. He was dressed in camouflage clothes and had only a bedroll with him. He said his "gear" had been stolen from him at Suches and he was going ahead on the trail until he could get some money from someone by Western Union. I didn't see him again today, but others reported him telling different stories of his plight. He was obviously not a real hiker. Seemed like a bum that decided to try his luck getting stuff off other people on the trail. I gave him a bag of Corn Nuts. Arrived at Wood's Hole shelter at 7:15 p.m. Rumors abounded on the trail that it had not been built yet (contrary to what my Thru-hiker Handbook said about it being completed in the Fall of 1997). To my good fortune it was dedicated as being completed on May 2, 1998. Had to follow a handmade sign .3 mile off the AT on faith only. Glad I did. I'm back on schedule!!! Reports are that this shelter has a privy with an herb garden for "freshness". I didn't see it, though. Thursday, May 7th - Neel's Gap - 30.7 mfs
Left Wood's Hole shelter about 8:00 a.m. Two fellows (Ron & Jim) came in at dark last night and it came a brief shower then. They reported the weather was supposed to turn rainy today and were they ever right. I packed for rain and it hit me 30 minutes into the trail. It varied between light, intermittent and downpour all morning. Hiked all the way up Blood Mtn., the highest point on the AT in Georgia, in the rain, thus missing what is supposed to be the best view in GA. Could see maybe 50 feet on the top. Decided halfway down that a break would be in order for the night. Stopped at the Walasi-Yi Center at Neel's Gap and immediately saw "Tin Cup" (the name I gave the man in camouflage I met on the trail). He had been telling others that he had a couple of guns in the bedroll, and was generally scaring people, so Dorothy Hansen called the sheriff, just in case. (He also left the wrapper from the Corn Nuts I gave him on the trail in front of Walasi-Yi. Talk about a serious criminal!!) By the way, the Walasi-Yi Center is reported to be the only spot on the AT where the trail actually goes through a building. After washing my clothes at Walasi-Yi Center I caught a ride to Goose Creek Cabins where the only bed available was a day bed with Matt and Jason. The night at Goose Creek Cabins was the first hiker gathering night for me on the trail. The hikers present include: "Mountain 'Man'" - a nurse from Arizona who is working in Nashville, and whose mother opposed her hike in fear of her turning into a mountain man; "Reverend Squirrel" - a female divinity student from Vanderbilt who is a meticulous packer, and friend of "Mountain Man"; Matt & Jason (who we have nicknamed "No Beer" for his anxiety over all the dry counties in Georgia; "Southern Harp and Travelin' Man"; Gunthar (no trail name yet) from Germany; "Sprite" - a girl taking a couple of days off with a hurt knee; "Blister Free" - a previous thru-hiker in 1995; plus four others, 2 guys and 2 girls I didn't really meet. They are Curtis and Peggy, and Joseph and Jennifer. They didn't eat with the rest of us when we ordered "take out" from the cabin offices. I saw Denny at Walasi-Yi today, but I guess he went ahead, as did Susan and Jay (the other two I met at Springer). Friday, May 8 - Low Gap Shelter - 41.4 mfs
Evidently I was first to awaken in "camp". Got to the cabin office about 7:35 a.m. and it was still closed. A pretty good storm came through last night with tornado warnings for the area. Was mighty glad I was in a dry bed. Pitied poor Susan and Jay who went on yesterday. Was first on the trail out of Walasi-Yi (of the cabin group) at 9:10 a.m. Had a really good day today, even though there were some pretty good ups and downs. Was pleased I made the decision to stay at Neel's Gap last night. It really helped my feet. Hardly had any toe numbness today. Stopped only a few times to renew circulation. The day started with a pretty good climb out of Neel's Gap, but I made it through the ups and downs to the top of Cowrock Mtn. by about 12:30 p.m., which was about 4 miles. Stopped with Mountain Man, Sprite, and Reverend Squirrel for lunch. They had caught me by mid-morn. Southern Harp and Travelin' Man, and Gunthar had passed me also. Made it down to Testnatee Gap by 1:30 p.m. There was a group of about 20 college-aged girls there finishing their hike of a few days and waiting for their ride. I snapped a picture of part of the group to prove to Keith McKee back home that there really are some black backpackers. The black girls in the group got a kick out of my reason for asking for their picture. The climb out of Testnatee Gap (otherwise known as Testosterone Gap) is a real killer. I believe the ascent is up Wildcat Mtn. (my map doesn't have the name on it), and is about 3/4 mile straight up. The hike down the other side goes only about 1/2 as far down to Hogpen Gap (where there is a maddeningly short road which goes around the mountain to Testnatee Gap). At Hogpen Gap there was a genuine trail angel waiting by the name of "Even Steven". He is a 77 year old man who said he decided to be a trail angel after he found he couldn't hike his favorite 16.5 mile mountain loop trail in one day any longer. He was waiting at the road with free Mountain Dews and Sprites and two peppermints for each hiker. He said that Earl Shaffer (the first person to thru-hike the AT in 1948) had been by about 2 days ago doing another thru-hike at age 79. He reported that Earl had a minimal pack with only a tarp for shelter and was doing 15-20 miles per day. Earl Shaffer is quite a legend on the Appalachian Trail. Wish I could meet him, but there is no chance I could catch him. Made it to Low Gap shelter by about 5:30 p.m. Only person there at the time was "The Mechanic". He carries a knife on his belt that's a good 12-14 inches long. It looks like a cross between a knife and a machete. He plans to thru-hike to Maine. Southern Harp and Travelin' Man were just leaving the shelter area when I arrived. They just were not comfortable staying with the Mechanic in the shelter. I decided to stay. My reasoning is that if someone is going to kill someone in their sleep, then they are certainly not going to advertise to everyone they see that they would be the prime suspect by carrying such a big knife. Changed my hiking style a bit during the middle of the day today. After the third time Sprite and the other two girls passed me I decided to try to walk a little faster if my feet would stand it. I actually managed to stay up with, or ahead of, them the rest of the day without my feet suffering too much. Will see how it works tomorrow. Saturday, May 9 - Tray Mtn. Shelter - 56.2 mfs
Left Low Gap shelter about 7:30 a.m., about 15 minutes behind "the Mechanic". Caught up with and passed him about 9:30 a.m. while he was taking a break to get water. I had hiked the first 1 1/2 hours in fog with about 100ft visibility. That was the first time for me to do that. Saw two trail keepers about 150 yards south of Chattahoochie Gap. They gave me some trail information and said I should make it to Blue Mtn. shelter by 12:30 p.m. Sure enough, I arrived there at 12:20 p.m. Stayed there through a long 2-hour break. Cooked dinner and took a 20 minute nap. The Mechanic arrived after me and decided to stay for the night. He is having some trouble with his feet I think. I went on hoping to make it a mile or two past Unicoi Gap. Got to Unicoi Gap at 4:15 p.m. and rested 15 minutes. Took off up Rocky Mtn. and made it to the top in one hour. Looked at an elevation map and determined I could probably make it all the way to Tray Mtn. shelter by plus or minus 8:30 p.m. After getting into Indian Grave Gap at 6:30 p.m. I thought I could do it. I MADE IT!!!! Got to Tray Mtn. shelter (also called Montray Shelter) at 8:45 p.m. just before dark. The view from here is supposed to be spectacular, but I arrived so late I missed it tonight. My toes are numb and my shoulders ache, but I'm back on my optimistic schedule. Set 3 PR's today. Have spent 5 nights "on the trail", have hiked further in one trip (57.1 official miles [56.2 plus the climb up Springer]) and hiked my longest mileage day (14.8 miles). Cooked supper in the dark. Took 2 Tylenol PM tabs, 1 Ibuprofen, and 1 antacid before hitting the sack. The trail register here warns of mice. Guess I'll see. Also the weather is supposed to turn bad tonight. Sunday, May 10 - Dick's Creek Gap - 66.8 mfs (Mull's Motel - Hiawassee, GA)
Broke camp leisurely this morning, anticipating a relatively easy 10 mile day to Dick's Creek Gap. Didn't turn out that way at all. First hour was in the fog, with about 100 feet visibility. After hiking about 20 minutes I heard the clunking sound of fast pounding feet behind me. I turned just in time to see a jogger!!! Three others followed him about 5 minutes behind (two girls and another guy). They were carrying small water bottles for weights in each hand. I never saw them again, but they were moving on. Right after the joggers passed the rain hit and kept it up all day long, with about a one-hour break around noon. I managed to stop at Addis Gap at 12:30 and mix a couple of instant breakfasts. I drug out the trusty ole insulated mug to mix it in and noticed the sip hole in the lid had chew marks around it. So much for not having mice visit the shelter. Also, this morning another camper told me that the peculiar moist droppings I had described to him as having been at Low Gap shelter was from bats. I had noticed that they were in a peculiar spot below a rafter. I didn't see or hear them, though. The day was really tough hiking after all. The rain kept me from getting to my water bottles, besides being soaked all day long either from the rain or my sweat. I finally managed to get to the blue blaze trail to Deep Gap shelter (7 miles from Tray Mtn.) where I was planning to spend an hour to refresh before heading on to Dick's Creek Gap. However, after going about 100 yards downhill I still didn't see the shelter. I kept thinking about having to hike back uphill to get back to the main trail, so I turned around and headed back. I pushed on, but my feet were really bothering me. I didn't have chances to stop for "pack off, boots off" in the rain. I did manage to get to Dick's Creek Gap about 5:00 p.m., though. My attempts to hitch a ride into Hiawassee proved futile until a man pulled up from the Hiawassee direction and parked in the lot in his pickup. He was waiting to meet his ex-wife there who was returning their 15 year old son to him after a weekend visit. He agreed to give me a ride into town. I checked in at Mull's Motel, took a hot bath and cleaned up, and then walked down to the Georgia Mountain Restaurant to eat, and ran in to Susan and Jay. We ate together and exchanged stories. They have decided on trail names of "Northern Exposure" (for Susan) and "Willet" (for Jay). They are staying at Mull's tonight, also. They advised me how to get to an all night laundry where I went and washed my clothes. Tried several times to call home before midnight, but was never able to get through on the motel phone. The lines were either all busy because of Mother's Day, or the phones weren't set up correctly in the motel at the time. Monday, May 11 - Muskrat Shelter - 78.4 mfs
Left Mull's about 9:30 a.m. after resupplying at Dill's Supermarket and calling Mom and Faye and eating 2 bacon, egg, and cheese biscuits and hashbrowns and coffee at Hardee's. On the trail at 9:50 a.m., but had to pay the motel owner's son (a 46 year old, mumbling three time divorcee) $15 for a shuttle ride from the motel to the trail. What a rip off!! Found out later that the Holiday Inn gave free shuttles, and they had a hot tub and swimming pool, for only $8 more for the room rate for hikers. Made it to Cowart's Gap by 10:50 a.m. Pretty good time! Passed Bull's Gap at 12:10 p.m. Stopped a few minutes later and refilled my water bottles. Come to Plumorchard Gap at 1:00 p.m. where I met about 10 hikers going south. Two were black, so I took a picture of them since I may have ruined my previous picture of black backpackers when I rewound my film backwards in my camera. Took a 10-minute pack off, boots off break to write this note. Sign says 7.3 miles to Muskrat shelter. Passed Blue Ridge Gap at 2:00 p.m. Made it to the GA/NC line at 4:00 p.m. My handbook says the GA/NC line is 75.4 mfs. Stopped and took a picture of my poles stuck in the ground in North Carolina and my pack leaning against the tree on the Georgia side. Went the .2 more miles to the old knarled tree at Bly Gap for a break. It is sort of the "official welcome to the state of North Carolina for those on the AT trail". It signifies that you have completed one out of 14 states on the entire AT. "Enjoyed" a nice rest with a swarm of little biting flies. Map says it is 2.8 more miles to Muskrat shelter from here. Left at 5:00 p.m. The 2.8 miles was a killer. I thought the bad ups and downs were supposed to end in Georgia. Not so!!! Possibly the worst up so far came right after Bly Gap. After several rest stops and POBO's (pack off, boots off) I made it to Muskrat shelter at about 7:00 p.m. There was a terrific view just .1 mile before the shelter looking west. May get up tomorrow and go back to it and get a picture before I head out. It's nice to be in North Carolina. Trail book says Muskrat shelter is 78.4 miles from Springer. The following is what I wrote in the shelter journal at Muskrat: "Life and the Appalachian Trail in Georgia are pretty much the same. Ninety percent is just ups and downs, with a good bit of poison ivy along the way. Only 10% is scenery, and you don't get any more than that. The key is not finding pleasure in the scenery. Anyone can do that. It is, rather, in finding more pleasure in the ups and downs. And the poison ivy?? Well, you either have to learn to avoid it, or you will have to seek treatment for it. Like I said, life and the Appalachian Trail in Georgia are pretty much the same." Tuesday, May 12 - Carter Gap Shelter - 91.9 mfs
Spent the night last night with "Sycamore" and "Speck" at Muskrat shelter. Woke up early at 5:45 a.m. and decided to go back to the cliffs and see if the view was good to the west. It was great. The valley was in the shadow of the mountain and a small fog expanded more and more to cover the lights and area below. I packed up and left camp at 7:30 a.m. About 10 minutes later I met "Long Haul", an older man who is going from Springer Mtn., GA to Katahdin, Maine by hiking south only. He has 2 vehicles and leapfrogs them north and then section hikes back south to where he left the other one. He was basically slackpacking (just using a daypack) to do between 15-20 miles per day. He asked me to check and make sure he had locked his pickup when I went by it in about an hour. Passed Chunky Gal Trail at 8:00 a.m. Found a pleasant surprise then. I opened a side pocket to my pack where I had kept my beef jerky before, and from which I thought it had fallen out a few days ago. I spotted a piece of jerky in the pocket and noticed it had simply slid around the pocket where I couldn't see it. Several pieces were gone. Mice had been in the pack and chewed a hole in the Ziplock, but had left several pieces, which I am now enjoying during a POBO at 8:45 a.m. I'm sure those mice were sanitary!! No need to unzip the bag anymore. Just pull the jerky out from the mouse hole. Made it to Deep Gap at 10:30 a.m. Took another POBO and left at 10:50. Made the top of Standing Indian Mtn. at 12:30 p.m. for a lunch break. Sycamore and Speck caught up with me on the way up. Met a southbound thru-hiker on the way up. His trail name was "Barough", which he said was after the first king of Ireland. He left Katahdin last June (1997) and should finish at Springer on Sunday, May 17th. Taking my time with lots of POBO's today. Went by Beech Gap at 2:20 p.m. Stopped a little further down the trail to resupply with water. Maps indicate about 3 1/2 miles to the shelter. Passed Coleman Gap at 3:30 and Timber Ridge Trail at 4:10. Arrived at Carter Gap shelter at 4:20 p.m. It's a very run down shelter. Looks like a good wind would blow it over. Northern Exposure and Willet didn't catch me while we were hiking during the day today as they usually do. They just arrived after I cooked supper. N.E. asked me if I had read the shelter journal yet. I told her it would be a good time to do it, so I opened it to the last entry and HURRAH!!!!! -- It read, "New shelter 100 feet north". I practically ran up the trail to see if it was true, and I'm now set up in a brand new shelter!! Feel like a king in a castle. Handbook had no mention of this. Took pictures of both for posterity. Met new hiker tonight with N.E. and Willet. He is "Frisco Dave" who started at Springer on May 2nd - a couple days ahead of me, but who is just now catching up with me after spending two nights at Neel's Gap. Wednesday, May 13 - Wallace Gap - 104 mfs - Rainbow Springs Campground
Was alone in the shelter at Carter Gap last night. Didn't even see signs of skunks or mice this morning. Woke up at 5:30 a.m. and got up around 6:00. Did my usual trip to the woods (the new shelter didn't have a privy yet), and then made 2 glasses of instant breakfast. Was packed and off by 7:15. Made it to "high point on Ridgepole" by just after 8:00, then on to Betty Creek Gap by 9:05 for a POBO, a chewy granola bar and some peanuts. Saw Long Haul at 9:30 "heading north by hiking south". He gave me his "card" and told me of his perimeter walk around the U.S. He has made 10,800 miles so far. The AT is his version of walking the East Coast. He has already done the Pacific Crest Trail and several others. Peaked Albert Mtn. at 11:15. The famous .2 mile "straight up" just before getting to the top was, in fact, everything as billed, but I made it fine since I had been anticipating it. Saw a black dog on the trail just before that, but it didn't seem to be with anyone. It took off down the side of the mountain when it saw that I was hiking over his spot on the trail. Took a 30 minute POBO and view from the watchtower on top of Albert Mtn., and then came on down to Big Spring shelter for a little more rest and to write in the shelter journal. Left at 12:35. Frisco Dave caught up with me at 1:45 at the intersection to Long Branch Trail, just before Glassmine Gap. He hiked ahead, but we were both at Rock Gap Shelter together for a POBO. Left at 3:30. A few minutes later I arrived at the crossing of Rock Gap and a highway where there is a blue blaze trail leading down the mountain to the "Wasilik Yellow Poplar", supposedly the second largest yellow poplar in North America. Took off down the trail with my pack on (not feeling comfortable leaving it at the roadside) and continued down for about a quarter of a mile. It looked like the trail might go for another half mile downhill, so I stopped and asked myself if it was worth it to hike that far downhill, then to carry that pack back up the hill to the main trail, just to see another tree. Decided I had spent the last 100 miles looking at trees, and one more that was simply bigger than the rest wasn't going to enhance my appreciation for nature that much, so I turned around and went back. Made it to Wallace Gap about 4:00 and took a left on Highway 64 to Rainbow Springs Campground. Had to hike the whole mile to get there. Only saw two vehicles on the way. One was a pickup going my direction, but who didn't stop to give me a ride. The other was Long Haul driving his pickup/camper uphill for another leapfrog. He tows his Subaru behind the pickup when he has to. Spent the night in the bunkhouse with Tim "Klar" (his middle name). Exchanged many trail stories with him before sleep. He's a fan of Ray Jardine, an "ultralighter" who has written several articles and books about it. He told me that margarine has probably the best calorie per weight ratio of anything a person could carry. We compared that with Hostess cream filled oatmeal cookies at 300 calories apiece, and he was right. Little Debbie has their version, also, along with almost all of their snacks being high in calories and fat. Not particularly good for you in normal life, but great for reloading calories and fat on the trail. Southern Harp said she read that a male backpacker burns something in the range of 6,600 calories per day. It's almost impossible to eat that much, so losing weight is practically inevitable until the body stabilizes to the backpacking routine. Topped the 100-mile mark today. Also met 3 women staying in the cabins at Rainbow. Their trail names are "MomMosa", "Grunt Girl", and "Birthday Girl". Thursday, May 14 - Siler's Bald Shelter - 110.4 mfs
Pretty good nights sleep last night. Ate 2 small "Red Baron Western Pizza Breakfasts" and a homemade cinnamon roll at the store. They gave me a free shuttle back to the trail. On the trail by 9:20 a.m. Passed the Walker family about 20 minutes into the hike. They are a grandfather, two sons, and grandson. The grandson has called the group the "Sky Walkers" and nicknamed each one after a Star Wars character. He was "Luke", grandfather was "Obiwon", and his dad and uncle were "Chewbacca" and "Hans Solo". Later met Tom (no trail name) going south. He was doing a flip flop. He had put in at Pearsburg, VA and was going to Katahdin to hike south after finishing this section at Springer. Took a POBO at Winding Stair Gap about 11:15 a.m. Have only 4 miles to go to Siler's Bald shelter. Have decided to make it an easy day, although the next four miles to the shelter are uphill. At 1:45 I met Long Haul going south again. This time I took his picture. Kept hiking and stopped for a standing rest on the trail when I was caught from behind by a day hiker photographer who had come up from Winding Stair Gap. We talked a minute and he turned around and headed back. I stayed on the white blaze trail to Siler's Bald. Dropped my pack and did the side trail to the top. Nice view of 360 degrees. Took a picture of the plaque on the top. Backtracked on the blue blaze trail to Silar's Bald Shelter. Had the time so I decided to stay "pure" at least for today. Low mileage day, but it's what my schedule calls for. The weather has been wonderful ever since Sunday. Hope it keeps up. Took the extra time to sew the AT patch on my pack. I'll add my own custom-made section patch to go with it when I get home. Friday, May 15 - North of Cold Spring Shelter 2 miles (tent) - 124.7 mfs
Grunt Girl (she moans whenever she strains in the least on the trail), and MomMosa showed up to tent camp last night about 6:00 p.m., as well as the Walker clan. Left them all at camp at 7:15 a.m. Made it to Wayah Gap at 8:40 and then uphill where I topped Wayah Bald by 11:10. Took a good break at the lookout tower on top of the bald. Two doctors were there on break day hiking. They were not together but one had been a doctor for several years in Rogersville, Alabama. An older lady also came up to the top of the tower with some friends visiting from England, and we all got in a discussion. As it turned out, the older lady knows Dot Crawford (Faye's cousin in Franklin, N.C.) and the doctor had treated Dot's mother, Mattie Rose (Faye's aunt) in Rogersville. I made it to Cold Springs Shelter where I had planned to stop at 4:30 p.m. Figured I had another hour in me, so I went 2 more miles and pitched my tent. The Walker clan had yellow blazed (taken the highway) ahead of me by pickup truck and we ended up deciding to push ahead from Cold Springs shelter at the same time, thus camping together at the same spot tonight. BTW (by the way) Silar's Bald Shelter, where we stayed last night, had an entry from Earl Shaffer in it from a couple of days before. I feel privileged to even sign the same journal as him, even though it is a couple of pages over. Met "Magoo" and his son and dog about a mile before stopping. He had met Earl on the trail and got his autograph in his personal trail journal. I'd give almost anything to meet him myself. Plan to adjust my schedule and spend the night in the Nantahala Outdoor Center bunkhouse tomorrow night if possible. Another BTW - I bought Spenco shoe insoles for my boots at Rainbow Campground Wednesday night. It seems to have helped my toe numbness a bit at least. I haven't had any problems with blistering, but about two hours into my hike each day I begin to experience numbness in my big toe and second toe. It then turns into cramping if I don't stop and get some circulation back to my toes. Saturday, May 16 - Nantahala Outdoor Center bunkhouse - 134 mfs
Managed to hit the trail by 8:00 a.m. It just takes longer to get started after pitching a tent. I also took the time to drink a cup of hot chocolate before leaving. Got to the top of Wesser Bald by noon and saw the view from the watchtower. The trail down from there to Wesser and the NOC was, again, a "real killer" for me physically and for my attitude. Began wondering what two more weeks on the trail could possibly do for me, other than to say I did it for 270+ miles. Made it to NOC totally bushed. The long 4+ miles steeply downhill is almost as hard as doing the same distance uphill. It takes a completely different set of muscles on the front of the legs, and the strain on the knees can be bone jarring. Time into NOC was 2:30 p.m. and it was 3:00 before I got to by bunkhouse. I had decided to take the quarter mile white blaze trail behind the cabins to remain a purist, and I missed the trail between the cabins leading to the bunkhouse. Probably did an additional quarter to half mile before meeting someone who pointed out my mistake. It always seems to happen when you are the most exhausted. Took a wonderful shower in the community center, followed by a Super Deluxe Wesser Burger and cup of chili with french fries and about a quart and a half of iced tea at the River's End Restaurant, and I felt like a new man. Bought a spare 11 oz. fuel bottle at the outdoor center and managed to Yogi (get something for nothing without asking) fuel from a fellow hiker in the store. He also gave me a squeeze bottle of Parkay margarine after I came right out and asked if he had one. (I finally decided that I could squeeze it liberally on oatmeal and grits, and in other meals, and could justify the one pound weight by doing so, as "Klar" had suggested.) The other hiker was "Indiana Jim", a mechanical engineer who is getting off the trail after a few more days rest here. He had hurt his knee, and is tired of the trail, besides. I'm not sure if I was the one who Yogied fuel off of him, or if he was the one who Yogied conversation off me. He seemed to want to talk forever about the trail, and being the shy and withdrawn person that I am, I obliged him. I'm spending the night in one of the bunkhouses with two guys (ages 21 & 22) who have been doing 20-25 mile days and are burnt out on the trail already. They are calling it quits here. I can see why in some ways. I really don't see what I'll get out of this that I haven't gotten already, but I'm going to see if I can't come up with some new philosophy about it and be like the postage stamp and "stick to it" if my body holds out. Called home tonight and got to "talk" with my grandson, Payton, on the phone. He wouldn't talk back, but Faye said he was listening intently. Hope he won't be scared of me after my not shaving for a month when I return. Plan to eat a big breakfast at the restaurant tomorrow before leaving. Short mileage day planned, but it is all uphill until a mile before the shelter. Bought a better map and guidebook at NOC. Will add weight, but it will also allow me to be more flexible if I want to pitch my tent instead of only using the shelters. It describes the water sources fairly well. It also gives the elevation maps for the Smokies. I think I depend on them more for planning my day than anything else. I've figured out that the nights in town are expensive (even when staying at hostels or bunkhouses for $10 a night), but probably worth it in order to keep the motivation going. Still hoping to make it to Hot Springs, N.C. I'm one mile ahead of my schedule, and only one mile from halfway there by official trail mileage. Sunday, May 17 - Locust Cove Gap (tent) - 144.4 mfs
Found out last night why a person shouldn't drink 1 1/2 quarts of tea before bed. Thought I'd never get to sleep, but woke up refreshed this morning nevertheless. Managed to get to the River's End Restaurant by 7:00 a.m. for a breakfast of coffee, 2 eggs, hash browns, ham, and french toast. Took my time getting around. Even had another shower before breakfast. Met the Walker clan as I was headed back to my bunkhouse. They were saying a prayer in a circle. I waited until they were through and asked them to keep me in their prayers while I was on the trail. They invited me into their circle for a prayer and "laying on of hands" to bless my journey. God hears some unusual requests, I know, but it was the first time I had ever had someone ask God to give me "cool breezes on warm days, strong legs for uphills, and strong knees for downhills, and for feet free of blisters." I just wish he had thrown in something about numb toes in there, too. I joined them in prayer and asked God to give them His blessing, also. We exchanged business cards with home addresses after that. Managed to get my pack on by 8:15 a.m. but probably didn't hit the trail until 8:30 because of all the people wanting to talk to me in the parking lot on the way to the trail from the bunkhouse. Decided to make this a slow, easy day with lots of stops. Made it to Wright Gap by 9:30 after a nice PO about 30 minutes into the trail. Stopped again shortly thereafter to write this note and enjoy the morning. Decided that part of my new philosophy would be, "I'm probably not going to pass this spot again in my lifetime, so cherish the moment, even though it may seem like so many others." To pass the time on the long uphills I have taken to reciting my trail journal to myself and practice the days, date, and places I stopped (shelters, campsites) and the people who were with me there. I'll also probably never see those people again, so implanting them in my memory will make them a more permanent part of my life. I'll try to enjoy each acquaintance and each step for that reason. Have now officially passed the halfway point to Hot Springs, N.C. I guess I'm "heading home" from the far end of the trip's "loop". At 10:45 a.m. I passed the memorial plaque for Wade Sutton, North Carolina Forest Ranger who died "783 feet Southwest of this spot" on Dec. 7, 1968 while fighting a forest fire. At 10:50 I passed the intersection of the AT with Grassy Gap Trail. Crested Swim Bald at 1:30 p.m. Thought it was a good time for a break. Stopped and cooked a couple of packets of instant grits with margarine squeezed liberally all over. WTTW (word to the wise) - Stop at NOC, get the big Wesser burger and chili and fries, spend the night, eat a big breakfast, and then climb up Swim Bald. Don't do it as an afterthought in the second half of the day after that long hike down into NOC. It's a 3,000-foot vertical climb up Swim Bald in six miles. Left Swim Bald about 2:30, after a southbounder headed for Springer stopped and visited awhile. Was only a short walk downhill to Sassafras Gap shelter. Stopped there from 2:45-3:15 to write in the shelter journal. The journal cover said that there is no more water until the next shelter - 10 miles away. Decided to tank up all my water containers, push ahead, and do a carried water camp tonight. Made it to the top of Cheoah Bald by just after 4:00 p.m. Beautiful view looking south from there. Stopped and enjoyed looking at the mountains over which I had traversed for the past several days. Built some confidence by being able to say, "Been there, conquered that one." Left at 4:20 and made it to Locust Cove Gap by 5:50 p.m., where, by the way, there is a perfectly good spring. Felt like it was a perfect day. I didn't put too much pressure on myself to get further than Sassafras Gap shelter, but was happy when it happened. It sure will help tomorrow by knocking off 3 1/2 miles of what I had otherwise planned to be a 15.2 mile day. Met a guy and his dog and later two of his friends just on the north side of Cheoah Bald. Later at Locust Cove, about 6:40 p.m. a solo girl came through camp planning to make it all the way to Sassafras Gap to meet the guy with the dog tonight. She is planning to hike with her headlamp in the dark if she has to. Looks like this will be the first night I will spend tenting alone. Feels sort of strange. Monday, May 18 - Cable Gap Shelter - 156.5 mfs
Woke up this morning at 5:30 after a pretty good 8+ hours sleep. Leisurely fixed some oatmeal with a lot of sugar and margarine added. Beautiful morning - pack on at 7:30 a.m. Made it to Simp Gap by 8:00. At 9:15 Tim "Klar" (who spent the night with me at Rainbow Springs) caught me. We hiked together to Stecoah Gap, where we stopped for 10 minutes to look at the map, and he also took my picture for me. After the short climb out of Stecoah there was a really tough climb up from Sweetwater Gap. Pretty much straight up for half a mile. Made it to Brown Fork Gap shelter by 11:20 a.m. Decided to stop and cook a Natural High Classic Spaghetti with Meat Sauce and contemplate life (and the rest of the day). Passed Hogback Gap at 2:15 p.m. Having a tough time with energy and motivation today. Tried to take a little nap on the trail at 1:30, but flies and ants kept bothering me. When an ant finally bit me I decided to push on. Stopped at 2:45 for an energy bar and pack off. Passed Cody Gap at 3:05 just after taking my break. Stumbled into Cable Gap Shelter at 5:10 p.m. No blue blaze trail to this one!! You practically walk through it to stay on the AT. Earlier in the day I told Klar to give Willet and Northern Exposure my address if he sees them in the next few days. When I got to Cable Gap Shelter there was a note from N.E. asking anyone who might find one of her Teva's to mail it to her, and she left her address. She and Willet came by Cable Gap at 11:00 a.m. today. Perhaps I'll see them in Fontana tomorrow. Some hiking days are good, others not so good. I pressured myself all day to go ahead to Fontana. Didn't have 6+ more miles in me at 5:00 p.m., though. Will make it an easy day tomorrow. The evenings gourmet diet consisted of two courses: First course was 2 packets of grits with a liberal dose of Parkay margarine and half a can (2 1/2 oz.) of Hormel Chunk Lean Ham with "smoke flavoring and ground ham added", and salted to taste. Second course was Lipton Noodles & Sauce Parmesan "Egg & Spinach Noodles in a Zesty Parmesan Cheese Sauce" with the other half can of ham mixed in, no gnats added. The meal was accompanied by the finest spring water in North Carolina expertly filtered through a genuine "PUR Hiker" water filter. The meal was cooked carefully over a Whisperlite International Shaker Jet Stove using the purest of Coleman white gas fuel, and simmered, yes I said simmered, by the delicate touch of "Scodwod", the master chef of the backwoods. WTTW - When buying those fast cook meals don't forget to check and see if they ask for milk to be added. Luckily I had powdered milk with me this time. Tuesday, May 19 - Fontana Village Hiker Hostel - (Fontana Dam "Hilton" Shelter, where I got off the trail, is 163 mfs.)
Pack on at 7:05 a.m. Passed Walker's Gap at 8:45 and Hwy 28 at 10:15. Stopped by the Marina and had a man call for a shuttle to pick me up at the Fontana Hilton Shelter at 11:30. Hiked over the hill and got to the shelter at 11:10. Signed the journal and waited for the shuttle at the lake overlook parking lot. A photographer taking pictures to make wallpaper on the Internet showed up at the parking lot. My ride hadn't arrived by 11:55 so I Yogied a ride into the Fontana Village reservation office. Got a hostel bed (board frame with a mattress - and bed linens this time) for $10. Ate lunch at the AYCE (All you can eat) Peppermill Buffet House for $6.95 and found out that N.E. had charged lunch to their room at the Fontana Inn. I walked up there and found them. We're all planning to try for Mollie's Ridge Shelter in the Smokies tomorrow. They were planning to go back and slackpack the 1.1 miles between Hwy 28 and the Fontana Shelter (to remain "purists"), so I gave them blank Great Smokey Mountain National Park (GSMNP) permits to complete and drop off with mine at the shelter. Thru-hikers (defined by GSMNP officials as anyone who enters the park having hiked at least 50 miles from outside of it to get there) do not need reservations in the park shelters as other people do. Theoretically they have 3 spots in each shelter reserved for them by the park. However, this system breaks down miserably when there are large numbers of thru-hikers, or when hikers are going through on holiday weekends like Memorial Day weekend (as we were doing). Later at the village grocery store I met Brain who got on the trail May 7th, but has already caught me here. I told him about the Hiker Hostel, so he chose to stay there, too. Called Faye and Mom about 9:30 p.m. while the laundry was washing. She's planning to stay an extra day in Atlanta and meet me in Hot Springs on the 30th. I gave her the number to call Duckett House Bread & Breakfast to make reservations for us there on that night. Met N.E. and Willet at the laundry and we compared plans for the next few days in the Smokies. Our planning was quick, however, for we were getting eaten alive by some tiny little bugs the locals call "no see-ums". They are awful in these parts. I had picked up a mail drop (my only one for the trip) this afternoon and Faye had sent me enough food for 10 days. I won't need to go into Gatlinburg for resupply while in the Smokies, but the extra weight is really going to hurt going up the Smokies from here. Used 2 meals tonight for supper. The hostel has a kitchen, so I combined food with Brian. Dropped about a pound of weight there. Wanted to eat another big meal at the AYCE buffet, but getting rid of some of that extra weight from my pack was more important. About Fontana Village. It is strictly a privately owned resort area, like the hiker handbook says, and it doesn't really get cranked up completely for business until Memorial Day weekend. The swimming pool for the inn, and the Ice Cream Soda Fountain were neither in operation by Tuesday before Memorial Day. Visited with a bunch of older guys across the street in a cabin for about an hour this evening. They call themselves the "Sons of Beaches". They were all veterans of different wars and were making this week their vacation, consisting of sitting around the cabin getting drunk and talking trash, mostly about Florida State University and Florida University football. Two of them saw my Oklahoma blood drive T-shirt and said they would even be happy if OU beat Florida. The conversation got even less significant, and lucid, as the evening wore on. That is when I decided to go do the wash and call home. Wednesday, May 20 - Mollie's Ridge Shelter - 174.2 mfs
Out of bed and down to Peppermill Buffet House by 7:15 a.m. They didn't open till 7:30. Ate big AYCE breakfast of eggs, hashbrowns, biscuits and gravy, 8-9 slices of bacon, and coffee for $6.25. Went back for seconds on the hashbrowns and biscuits and gravy. Added some orange juice and was off to the grocery store by 8:00 to buy some postcards. Sent one each to cousin Terry, Anna, Amanda, and Mom. Shuttle ($1) picked me up at the hostel at 9:00 a.m. and took me to the Fontana Hilton Shelter parking lot where I got off the trail yesterday. Pack on, and headed across the dam by 9:15. Got to the trail where the GSMNP begins off lakeshore road at 10:00 after stopping to talk with the construction workers and a visitors center worker. Stopped at 10:30 for a pack off. Nice day. Made it to Shuckstack Mtn. watchtower by 1:00. Beautiful 360 degree view of where I've been and Fontana Lake, and where I'm going in the Smokies. Had lunch, POBO and relaxed for an hour. N.E. and Willet caught up with me as I was leaving. Brian had caught me earlier in the morning. The day was definitely tough for me because of the 11 days of food I'm carrying. Barely made it to Mollie's Ridge shelter by 7:00 p.m. We called it Mollie's Rib Shack while we were there. Some of the park rangers had been on the trail and killed some wild non-indigenous hogs, which they had left for the other animals to eat. We could definitely smell them as we went by. Thought it was such a waste of good pork ribs!! By this time on the trail there seems to be a preoccupation with thinking about food. Either you are carrying too much of it in weight, or you are always hungry from burning so many calories each day. The shelters in the Smokies are all inside caged fronts with heavy mesh wire all across. Learned this afternoon why. Just after leaving the watchtower, about a quarter mile past where Lost Cove Trail crosses the AT, I heard a crashing into the woods about 30 feet ahead of me. It was a fairly good-sized black bear and it stopped about 20 feet off the trail to my right. I had to back up a few feet to see it well, but then I could see it face on. I stood and stared at it for a few moments and then said to it, "You having a good walk in the woods?" It raked the ground and fainted an attack at me, so I decided it could just have the woods without my conversation. In the Smokies you must stay in the shelters, and this was the first night for N.E. and Willet to do so. They are having to get mentally prepared for dealing with the mice, like the rest of us "shelter dwellers" did the first time. Well, lights out at 9:00 p.m. It's dark. Thursday, May 21 - Derrick Knob Shelter - 185.6 mfs
Pack on at 7:30. First one out of camp. N.E., Willet, and Brian still in bed. Got to Russell Field Shelter at 9:00 a.m. Had a quart of instant breakfast. Met "Wino" who is doing "out and backs" on the trail. Have seen his name in several of the shelter journals. About 10:15 three guys on horses passed me going north. I made it to Spence Field Shelter by 11:15 and they were there resting, also. Took good lunch break with beef jerky. Left about 12:15. Made it to the peak of Rocky Top (TN) by 1:15 for another break. N.E. and Willet and Brian were already there. They had bypassed the blue blaze side trip stop at Spence Field Shelter. Made it to Derrick Knob Shelter at 5:45 p.m. after stopping to get water and a few POBO's to maintain my strength. Barely able to make it with the weight. The shelter continued to fill up with hikers. At this writing there are 10 here. I'm sleeping on the top level with four others. Memorial Day weekend combined with the GSMNP leaves me wanting to get out of here as soon as possible. Friday, May 22 - Mt. Collins Shelter - 199.1 mfs
One of the four highschoolers who stayed at the shelter last night had his alarm set for 5:45 a.m. He and his buddies wanted to get pictures of the sunrise. As it turned out they couldn't even see the sunrise from the shelter area, but they managed to wake everyone up in the process. I got up and was first out of camp with pack on at 7:15 a.m. Others at the shelter later reported that the highschoolers were actually the last to leave camp this morning around 9:00-9:30 a.m. What a group!! Made it to Silar's Bald Shelter (another one by that name) at 10:15 a.m. Took a snack and POBO break for nearly an hour. Left at 11:10. Made it to Double Spring Gap Shelter at 12:10 p.m. Left after 20 minutes. N.E. and Willet had caught me, but were stopping for a longer lunch break. Everybody has their own hiking style. I get up early and hike slow, while N.E. and Willet usually don't leave camp until around 9:00 a.m., but somehow manage to catch me by around noon or shortly thereafter. I wouldn't have given them any chance of making their hike when I first saw them. They are carrying way too much weight, have a terrible backpack arrangement, aren't hiking with poles, she started with a knee bandage, and they are always late leaving camp. Somehow, however, they have managed to not only out-hike me during the day (even though I am clearly "superior" in all of those categories I mentioned about them), but usually feel good at day's end. Go figure. I finally apologized to them about my thoughts about their not being able to do the hike. I guess we've become the closest trail friends of anyone in our "group" so far. Beautiful views from Siler's Bald all the way up to Clingman's Dome. Fontana Lake is visible and the views into both Tennessee and North Carolina are spectacular. Most of the trail in the Smokies literally rides the ridge between the two states. If a person had a heart attack here they would have a 50/50 chance of falling into either state as they hit the ground. Made it to Clingman's Dome at 2:30 p.m. Met many people coming the quarter mile up from the tourist's parking lot huffing and puffing, and they weren't even carrying a pack. Stayed for 45 minutes on Clingman's Dome and enjoyed the break and the view from the observation tower (which is wheelchair accessible). It is the highest point in Tennessee. It's fascinating to look back over the mountains and valleys where I've hiked. The tower has picture markers to show the names of the mountains that can be seen. Quite a feeling of accomplishment! Sycamore caught up with us at the shelter tonight. Speck, his hiking buddy, had given up and gone home. He reports that Travelin' Man, Southern Harp, Clover (formerly Mountain "Man"), Rev. Squirrel, and Pixie (formerly Sprite) all went to Trail Days in Damascus, VA, and are about 1-2 shelters behind me now. They will probably pass me tomorrow. I have a short day planned then. When I got into camp there was a couple by the name of Don and June who do all their camp food by dehydrating leftovers at home. They were celebrating their 25th non-anniversary this year. June reported that just before they were to be married 25 years ago they just said "P--- on it!" and decided to just live together. They live most of the year at Leaper's Fork near Nashville, but take off a lot and travel on hiking trips whenever they feel like it. They really enjoy cooking over an open fire, so they usually only hike about 7 miles a day, and spend the rest enjoying the concoctions they have dehydrated to bring on the trail. She gave me a recipe I am going to try in my dehydrator for "fruit bar cookies". See the end of the journal for the recipe. Saturday, May 23 - Peck's Corner Shelter - 214.5 mfs
Had a short day planned for today. Originally had planned to go into Gatlinburg for resupply, but I have plenty of food so I decided to "sleep in". Stayed in bed until 6:45 and then cooked grits and hot chocolate for breakfast. Shared a chewy granola bar with a friendly squirrel, too (a mistake you should not do on the trail). Pack on at 8:15. Made it to Newfound Gap by 10:15. Too many tourists. Onward and upward to Icewater Shelter. Made it there by 1:45 p.m. Earl Shaffer left his usual note at this shelter on May 18th. It always reads the same: "On Long Cruise II 48/98 'Crazy I' EVS" Northern Exposure and Willet showed up about 2:00 p.m. and the place was teaming with tourists on their way to "Charlie's Bunion" for the view, and we decided we couldn't stand to stop that early in the day. After adding a note to the shelter journal I left out at 2:30 and accidentally got off on the Boulevard Trail and went about a mile before I met someone who told me I was going the wrong way to get to Peck's Corner Shelter. Wasted about an hour in the process. Had some great views, but going the extra 2 miles getting lost, and the extra 7 miles I was attempting to add to my planned day, really wiped me out before getting into Peck's Corner Shelter at 7:45 p.m. WTTW- It pays to read the guides and handbooks you buy and tote along on the hike. Wingfoot's Thru-hiker's Handbook says this, "Watch carefully for the turnoff to this shelter (Icewater Springs). Some hikers has forged ahead on the side trail to Mt. LeConte, thinking they were still on the AT!" I guess I now qualify as what WF calls "some hikers" (translated - dummies who are too cocky to even use the help they have already paid for). BTW - When I left camp this morning I met Matt & Jason (now "Polar Bear and Aeneas") at the junction of the AT with the blue blaze trail to Mt. Collins Shelter. They had gotten up at 3:30 a.m. and left camp at 4:00 a.m. this morning to make sure they got into Gatlinburg by noon before the Post Office closed. I hadn't seen them since Goose Creek Cabins at Neel's Gap. Also heard that Southern Harp and Travelin' Man are spending the night tonight in Gatlinburg. They should still catch up with me before I get to Hot Springs. Brian (now called "The Cajun" since he is from New Orleans) left us on the trail, made it into Gatlinburg to pick up a mail drop and eat a medium pizza supreme at Pizza Hut, and still made it to Peck's Corner Shelter to be with us tonight. Sunday, May 24 - Cosby Knob Shelter - 227.0 mfs
Was the first to wake up this morning and start stirring at 6:30 a.m. but Jeff (a thru-hiker I met only yesterday) got up and was gone by 7:00 a.m. I took my time and fixed breakfast (oatmeal and hot chocolate) and left at 8:15. Made it to Tri-Corner Shelter by 11:30. I had a rough morning motivation-wise. I was actually getting a little depressed and took an extended POBO at 11:00 a.m. Naturally, as is often my luck, I was only about 100 yards from the Tri-Corner Shelter. Stopped again there to get water and left a note in the journal and was gone by noon. Made it into Cosby Knob Shelter about 4:45 p.m. Several day hikers are here tonight. Jeff was here when I got here. In his haste to leave camp this morning he had left two of his Nalgene bottles sitting by a log at Peck's Corner Shelter and was hoping someone would notice and bring them to him. I hadn't noticed them as his before I left, so he was just about to give up and hike to the next shelter at Davenport Gap when a couple of other hikers showed up with his bottles. Cajun, N.E. and Willet then showed up a few minutes later and we decided to pool our dinners and had a sort of buffet with each other. My long day yesterday should give me the option of spending the night at Mtn. Moma's (yes, that's the way she spells it. She seems to think that spelling words incorrectly is some sort of mountain virtue, I think). Looking forward to a night off the trail out of the Smokies. Passed two girls on the trail today who were taking a break and were also headed for Cosby Knob Shelter tonight (who actually caught me and passed me before the shelter). One was a girl with Korean parents named Gia, and the other was named Woden Sorrow Teachout. She said she was born in 1969, and that should be enough explanation for her name, having parents from the 60's and all. Both of these girls are students at Harvard and are just down for a few days hike in the Smokies. Monday, May 25 - Davenport Gap - 235 mfs (stayed at Mountain Moma's bunkhouse)
Awoke at first light as usual about 6:15 a.m. Took my time, but left camp with pack on about 7:05. Easy hike today. Just one "up" at Mt. Camerer. Didn't take the side trail trip to the watchtower on the top. It would have been a round trip of 1.2 miles, and the haze over the valleys hadn't lifted yet, so I opted to keep truckin' toward a cheeseburger and a bunk at Mtn. Moma's. Passed Davenport Gap Shelter at 11:00 a.m. just after taking a standing potty break on the trail and seeing another bear about 40 feet off the trail into the woods. Got to the road at Davenport Gap where the TN/NC state line is at 11:20 a.m. Walked about half way to Mtn. Moma's before a Park Ranger stopped and offered me a ride the rest of the way. I gladly accepted, even though it was only another half mile further. As it turns out, he was a former thru-hiker himself. Mountain Moma's is a modest (to say the least) but welcome sight after being in the same clothes without a bath for six days. After a shower and change of clothes I indulged in their "Huge Cheeseburger" with fries, and a piece of apple pie and ice cream. Pure heaven!! "Sasquatch" (another new hiker I just met today) showed up at MM's just after I ate. N.E. and Willet were not far behind. Just after they got their food about 2:00 p.m. it came a torrential downpour. The Cajun came in about 3:00 all drenched. Southern Harp and Travlin' Man also made it here about 3:30. It was the first I'd seen of them since the day after Goose Creek Cabins when they decided to press onward instead of sheltering with "The Mechanic" who everyone is now calling "Blade" after his 14 inch knife. At 5:00 p.m., after calling Mom, I went into MM's and was talking "trail trash" with "Monkhead", another hiker I hadn't met yet. We were talking about the weight we were carrying (90% of trail talk is either about pack weight, distance covered, equipment, or food) and I said something about feeling like I had lost some body weight, also. The cook was taking a break and listening to our conversation and said she had some scales behind the counter. Got on, even after eating that big lunch, and had lost 17 pounds since May 4th. That's 17 pounds I needed to lose, and I feel like I've been eating enough to keep my energy on the trail. I also know that a lot of my current 200 pounds is muscle instead of fat. It is also 17 pounds that my poor feet don't have to lug up those P.U.D.s!! Monkhead had ordered a pizza and offered me a slice. Again, I gladly accepted. At 6:00 I came back to the grill for a large Philly Sub. Afterwards N.E. and Willet ordered a large pizza and had too much, so they offered me a slice of that. Again... After everyone had eaten, bathed, and done their wash, we all congregated outside the bunkhouse (called the "Honeymoon Shack") where I'm staying tonight with N.E. and Willet and Sycamore (all the bunkhouses are co-ed). It is one of three which have space to sleep about 6 each. N.E. and Willet had a mail drop at MM's with, as usual, far too much stuff, especially since they are seriously considering getting off the trail at Hot Springs instead of Erwin. We all began bartering with each other over trail food for the next three days hike. I managed to drop my instant breakfasts, which I am thoroughly tired of by now, and picked up two pre-packaged breakfasts of omelettes. WTTW - What you like to eat on the first day on the trail will get old fast if you eat it every day for 3 weeks. Also, if you don't like something before you get on the trail, you'll like it even less on the trail. Just because something is weight/calorie efficient doesn't improve the flavor any. We got out our elevation maps for the next section and could see that we have a tough uphill six miles included to get out of Davenport Gap and where I-40 crosses the trail. Tuesday, May 26 - Groundhog Creek Shelter - 244.7 mfs Mtn. Moma's opened for breakfast at 8:00 a.m. Had 2 eggs, grits, toast, hashbrowns, ham, and coffee. Good fuel for hiking up Snowbird Mtn. Southern Harp started playing the piano and singing, so we all just took our time and enjoyed it. She even got me to sing with her. We sang the children's bible song "Zacheus" for Sycamore, who had never heard it. Another note about MM's. It has got to have the most cigarettes per square inch of floor space of any store I have ever seen. It was the downfall of Sasquatch who, up until then, had been able to quit smoking on the trail. Smoking is evidently another hillbilly virtue. She said she was "goin to make a killin' when congress raised the cigarette prices". At 9:45 we all (except Cajun who came down with a stomach virus during the night) piled into the back of MM's pickup with our packs and MM's big black dog named "Bear Dog" and got a $1 shuttle back to the trail. Had pack on by 10:00 a.m. Got to the top of Snowbird at 2:00 p.m. and took a 30 minute POBO and lunch break with N.E. and Willet. Got to Groundhog Creek Shelter at 3:30. Sycamore and Sasquatch (usually shortened to Squatch), as well as N.E. and Willet, and Southern Harp and Travelin' Man, had passed me and were already there. All but S & S decided to go on and camp a few miles ahead. When S & S started to leave it began to rain and they decided to stay. Later Monkhead, and Curtis and Peggy showed up. Curtis and Peggy had their dog, Casey, with them. They were 2 of the 4 I hadn't really met very well at Goose Creek Cabins. Since they couldn't take their dog through the Smokies they yellow blazed around instead of boarding Casey and paying to shuttle her around. Their friends, Joseph and Jennifer, only planned to stay on the trail for a week. Curtis and Peggy are planning to go all the way to Damascus, VA., with the exception of skipping the Smokies. The 11 miles today was surprisingly easy. If there is one thing I have learned about hiking, it is that you can never predict how the day ahead of you will go. Sometimes the elevation maps point to an obviously hard day, but it turns out to be relatively easy for some reason. Other short days, or level days, may be plagued with lack of motivation, or even depression. It's kind of like going to work each day. You never really know what is going to happen. This is probably my next to last night on the trail, so I have no reason to push on. I'll have 2 days in Hot Springs ahead of Faye picking me up anyway, so there's no reason to hurry. Have now passed my "least optimistic point of trail departure (Davenport Gap), so it looks like it is Hot Springs or bust at this point. By the AT Thru-hiker Handbook Hot Springs is 270 miles from Springer, which is exactly one eighth of the total distance of the AT. Wednesday, May 27 - Roaring Fork Shelter - 255.9 mfs
Monkhead (who tented during the night) woke us up at 6:00 a.m. this morning and Sycamore told him to come back at 6:45. I went ahead and got up, though, and cooked one of the pre-packaged omelet breakfasts that N.E. and Willet had given me. Took awhile to cook, but was tasty, despite Cajun telling me when I got them that they tasted a lot like cardboard. Added dried peppers and a can of ham to it and made it a real meal. Left camp with pack on about 8:00 a.m. Came upon N.E. and Willet at their campsite at 9:30. Unfortunately for them, they had to camp on a slope with a very poor spring. That is one of the problems of pushing on past the shelters. You never know whether a place to camp is really ideal or not. Made it to the summit of Max Patch Mtn. by 11:40 and took a good lunch break POBO. I'm sure enjoying the bag of GORP I found left at the "hiker's exchange box" in the bunkhouse at MM's. Recipe (without the M&M's which I dislike in GORP) seemed to consist of raisins, cheerios, unsalted mixed nuts, and granola. Also had another bagel with Philadelphia Cream Cheese. Left the summit of Max Patch about 12:15. Got to Roaring Fork Shelter about 2:30 p.m. Squatch, Sycamore, and N.E. and Willet all went ahead to camp out on the trail. I decided to stay here instead of chancing going two more miles to a shelter that some reports say may have been demolished from old age. That will make a 15-mile day for me tomorrow into Hot Springs. Tina and John, and Jo and Bo, and Bruce showed up to stay here also. They all started from Springer on May 8th. I met Bruce as we were leaving Mtn. Moma's yesterday morning, but the others are new to me. They are trying to thru-hike to Katahdin. Met a guy on the north side of Max Patch today who was day hiking from his vehicle. Just before dark he showed up at the shelter with a half-gallon of vodka and asked if anyone wanted a nightcap. Some of the others had some strange mixture of Kool-Aid, but it was sufficient to provide some "spirits" for all. The guy called himself "Peg Leg" because he has one leg shorter than the other from polio as a child. Thursday, May 28, 1998 - Hot Springs Hiker Hostel - 270.5 mfs
Woke up early at 5:45 and cooked the last of the pre-cooked omelettes N.E. and Willet had given me. Had pack on by 7:10 a.m. (I never used an alarm to wake me up on the entire trail, except the one the highschoolers had at the shelter in the Smokies). Made it to the old shelter at Walnut Mtn. by 8:00 a.m. It wasn't bad, but had a questionable water source, and I'm not too disappointed in my decision to stay at Roaring Fork. Came across N.E. and Willet at their campsite at 8:45. They had left me a note at the old shelter at Walnut Mtn. and said they would save me a pancake. I stopped and enjoyed a pancake as promised (although I had to eat it out of a Ziplock since they were in the process of breaking camp). They had camped at Catpen Gap. Made it to Garenflo Gap by 11:15. Jo had passed me earlier in the morning almost in a run downhill. I told her at Garenflo Gap that I had a trail name for her. She carries a Teddy Bear strapped on the back of her pack, and I said that since the Teddy Bear was all I saw of her as she went by me in a cloud of smoke that I would call her "Rocket Bear". She thought that was good enough, and adopted the name. Peg Leg was at Garenflo Gap (with his vehicle) with 5 gallons of fresh water and an ample supply of Gatorade, which he offered to all. Bo caught up with us just at that time. Stopped and ate 1 1/2 bagels and cream cheese and shared the rest. Peg Leg carried out some trash for us, so my load was lightened even further. I was determined to hike into Hot Springs with no more food than my one "emergency" pre-packaged meal I always carry. Made it to Deer Park Mtn. Shelter by 1:15 where I stopped and wrote a journal entry and took a 30-minute POBO. N.E. and Willet showed up just as I was leaving. Made it into Hot Springs by 3:30. Went straight to Sunnybank Inn to try to get a room, but Bo and Rocket Bear had beaten me to the last ones available. Ended up staying at the Hiker Hostel for $10. Ran into Rev. Squirrel, Clover, and Pixie downtown and we ate together at the Bridge St. Restaurant. It was true Italian style gourmet food. My meal came to $18.50 plus tip, but I figured I was worth it. After eating I walked to the Duckett House Inn to see if Faye had gotten reservations for Saturday night. On the way I noticed that I had accidentally yellow blazed around about 75 yards of the trail coming into town, so I went back to cover it, just to remain a "purist". Met Aeneas coming down the trail into town. He had done 25 miles today from Groundhog Creek Shelter to make it into Hot Springs. He says Cajun is right behind him. Aeneas and Bruce are both staying at the hostel tonight. Aeneas said he was abandoned by Polar Bear who had a beer attack at the I-40 crossing and had hitchhiked into Nashville for a stay at the pub. He said he was going to kill him when he saw him next. Called Faye before bedtime and confirmed our plans for Saturday. I have now completed one eighth of the AT, and the time it takes to hike 3 miles ahead of schedule. Friday, May 29, 1998 - Sunnybank Inn (Also known as "The Inn at Hot Springs", or just plain "Elmers")
After finding out that I could get a room at Sunnybank I called the Duckett House and cancelled the reservations for Saturday night. They were going to charge us $75 for the night, and I can get a room at the Sunnybank for $30 for the two of us ($12 for a thru-hiker, and $18 for Faye). Had breakfast at the diner just down the hill from the hostel and Sunnybank Inn and ran into Southern Harp and Travelin' Man there. They were eating a hearty breakfast before heading on out of town (the AT actually goes right down main street in Hot Springs). I moved from the hostel into the Sunnybank about 12:30 after doing my wash. About 1:30 I was walking toward town and saw Craig Schneider coming down the road. He was a fellow I had passed on the trail in the Smokies, and I had only seen him one other time just as we were leaving Mountain Moma's as he was arriving there. I met him on the road and helped him get settled into the hostel. There was no more room at the Inn. I returned to the Inn for a nap and the Cajun came into town. Others told him where I was staying, and that I was napping, so he checked into the hostel, where I later found him. I had promised him a ride into Nashville when we left Hot Springs, so he could catch a flight home from there. Ate the gourmet vegetarian dinner which Elmer prepared tonight ($8). He was once the owner of a vegetarian restaurant and returned to Hot Springs and bought the Sunnybank and fixed it up after thru-hiking 21 years ago. He is truly a 60's child and is super hiker friendly. Dinner was a special mushroom soup, followed by fresh garden salad, and a main course of spaghetti with tempe sauce. Scrumptious!!! Met "Bob from Buffalo" today, as well as "Dreamcatcher" and "Smiley". I've seen their entries in trail journals over the past several weeks. Hot Springs seems to be a sort of trail "magnet" which is hard for thru-hikers to leave. Several were staying for the Mountain Music Festival being held here tomorrow. Schneider came by for some pleasant conversation with N.E., Willet and me before bedtime. He is a free lance editor and had some interesting stories to tell. Hot Springs is serving as a sort of trail decompression zone for me. Late in our conversation tonight we actually began talking about topics other than the trail. I'll be ready to see Faye tomorrow, and to leave the "trail culture" for now. Some time at the music festival should provide a good transition. Faye even mentioned driving back to Pigeon Forge for some antiqueing. We'll see what happens, but whatever it is will take me one step further into adjusting to being off the trail. Saturday, May 30 - Hot Springs
Woke up early, as usual, this morning at 6:00 a.m. Surprisingly I have never read Walden by Thoreau, so I slipped quietly out onto the veranda upstairs and read until breakfast. Beautiful morning! Breakfast consisted of grapefruit, granola mix cereal, and french toast with apple syrup, and coffee and tea. Faye arrived just after noon and we ate lunch at the Bridge St. Restaurant with N.E. and Willet. They bought in appreciation for me later driving them to Erwin, TN where Willet had left his car before starting their hike. Enjoyed showing Faye the town (taking about 15 minutes, since it really only has one street of any consequence), and introducing her to several of the "hiker trash" I had been associating with on the trail. Also enjoyed hanging out at the music festival for awhile and going by and talking with Dan "Wingfoot" Bruce at the "Center for Appalachian Trail Studies" at his house. Interesting fellow (he has thru-hiked the AT seven times), but I felt he went a little overboard defending Mull Motel's shuttle "service" when I mentioned it to him. No dinner at Elmer's tonight because of the festival. I was disappointed Faye didn't get a taste of a full dinner cooked by Elmer. Sunday, May 31 - Henderson, TN
Got up early again. No sense staying in bed when the sun is rising and you can't sleep. I sneaked out of the room, took a quick bath (Faye says I still smell after two days in town, and two baths before she got here), and read another chapter of Walden. Gave Faye an extra hour of "sleep snooze" before getting her up for breakfast. Breakfast fare was cantaloupe and melon slices, granola mix cereal, grits (made from yellow corn), and spiced cheese scrambled eggs, whole wheat biscuits and gravy, and coffee and tea ($5 a piece). We left immediately after breakfast and headed toward Nashville. Gained an hour back in time and arrived at our friends, the Ruckers, south of Franklin about 12:30 CT. Had the Cajun with us at the Ruckers since his flight wasn't until 7:00 p.m. He seemed to enjoy the good food (Lasagna) and fellowship with all the total strangers. After dropping Brian off at Nashville Airport we drove to Henderson where we visited with Faye's dad and Bessie at the nursing home for about an hour. Spending the night with Faye's brother, Reeder, and Mary. Monday, June 1, 1998 - Edmond, OK
Left Reeder and Mary's about 8:00 a.m. and made a short visit with Pop at the nursing home before heading out at 8:30. He is 91 years old and just couldn't grasp why anyone would want to take nearly a month and walk 270 miles on a trail. No explanation from me would be sufficient for sure. Long drive home today. Got to Edmond about 6:30 p.m. Faye had the cell phone with her, so we called Mom from the outskirts of the city and placed our order for some homemade sandwiches. Called Anna and she and Tara joined us. I had taken my film by Wal Mart and got the pictures back before going home. Went over the pictures and my trail stories with them. That pretty much finishes my "decompression". Got home about 8:30 p.m. and Mattie, my dog, went almost wild when seeing me. It's good to be loved so unconditionally, even if it is just by a dog!!
May 1998 Appalachian Trail Hike - Goal/Actual Hike
Date Day# Mile Goal Goal Location Actual Comments 5/4 .5 5.3 Stover Creek Shelter 2.5 Drive to Springer 5/5 1 15.9 Justus Creek (tent) 13.0 5/6 2 26.5 Wood's Hole Shelter 26.7 5/7 3 37.1 Neel's Gap 30.7 Goose Creek Cabins 5/8 4 47.7 Low Gap Shelter 41.4 5/9 5 58.3 Tray Mountain Shelter 56.2 5/10 6 68.9 Dick's Creek Gap 66.8 Motel/Hiawassee, GA 5/11 7 79.5 Muskrat Creek Shelter 78.4 5/12 8 90.1 Carter Gap Shelter 91.1 5/13 9 100.7 Wallace Gap 104.0 Rainbow Springs Camp 5/14 10 111.3 Siler's Bald Shelter 110.7 5/15 11 121.9 Tent Site 124.7 5/16 12 132.5 Nantahala River 1 34.3 NOC bunkhouse 5/17 13 143.1 Locust Cove Gap 144.4 tent site 5/18 14 153.7 Cable Gap Shelter 156.5 5/19 15 164.3 Fontana Dam, NC 162.0 Fontana Village Hostel 5/20 16 174.9 Mollies Ridge Shelter 174.2 5/21 17 185.5 Derrick Knob Shelter 185.6 5/22 18 196.1 Mt. Collins Shelter 199.1 5/23 19 206.7 Peck's Corner Shelter 214.0 5/24 20 217.3 Cosby Knob Shelter 227.0 5/25 21 227.9 Davenport Gap 235.0 Mtn. Moma's bunkhouse 5/26 22 238.5 Groundhog Creek 244.7 (Shelter) 5/27 23 249.1 Roaring Fork Shelter 255.9 5/28 24 259.7 Hot Springs, NC 270.5 Hot Springs hostel 5/29 25 270.5 Hot Springs, NC reached Hot Springs afternoon of 5/28
Don & June's Chewy Fruit Cookie recipe
8 cups of fruit (your choice or mixed of several) "mushed up" in a blender
2 cups unsalted nuts (your choice) - chopped
1 cup raw wheat germ
Mix all ingredients together (add a little fruit juice if not mushy enough) and dehydrate on a sheet. Don't put more than two cups per dehydrator sheet, and don't use more than five layers of trays in the dehydrator at any one time.
1998 Christmas card received from Matt & Jason, alias "Polar Bear" and "Aenaes" with a picture of them at the sign atop Katahdin: "G*@D!?m# If anyone ever freakin' told me just how long this trail was I woulda stayed home!! But they didn't, and so completely unaware, till New England, of just how long it was, we made it. Happy Christmas, Merry New Year, and thanks for the cigar. -- Polar Bear" "Man, this is no joke. Of course we're not BS-ing you. We're serious! 169 days, much pain and torment, massive mountains, demons in the night - Oh the glory!! I hope all is well with you and your family. Good luck and call us on your New England section.--Aeneas---- "The Big Bad boys from Boston"